How to buy dress pants

Not all pants are created equal. We think a wise man once said that, but we’re not sure which one.

We stress over our dress shirts, ties, shoes, and blazers, but do we stop to really think much about the pants we buy and how they fit us. Guys, you’ve probably had your fair share of pants that were a bit too baggy or just too tight, but you stuck it out and wore them anyway.

That’s about to change. We want to show you the proper way to buy dress pants to ensure they always fit you and your body type. You need to be concerned not just with the waist size and color, but also the length, the inseam, the way they hit your shoe.

Why do guys buy the wrong pants?

If you don’t know that to look for, it’s pretty hard to find the right pair of pants. Usually, if we’re at the store, we just want something that fits our waist size. It’s a hurdle just to find a pair you like that fits your waist and that’s where many of us stop.

But it’s time to start being picky about your slacks.

How to take measurements

Here are the main measurements you need to be concerned about:

  • Inseam (bottom side of ankle to underside of the crotch)
  • Waist
  • Rise (crotch seam to top of waist)

You’re probably familiar with waist and inseam. But rise may be a new one. Many retailers sell pants with the rise at 10 inches, but guys over 6 feet tall may need long rise pants that are around 12 inches.

Real Men Real Style has a great write up on how to take measurements for each of these items.

What to look for when buying

Now it’s time to head to the store to try on some pants. When it comes to dress pants, you will noticed that they need to be worn a bit higher on the body. That’s because the distance from the waist to the crotch is longer than for casual pants. Pull your trousers above the hips to get the optimal look.

According to A Tailored Suit, when your pants wrinkle or bunch around the thighs, they’re too tight.

If you notice billowing or the crotch area sagging, then the pants are too loose.

Next, decide between pleated and plain-front pants. Real Men Real Style has an infographic to show you the different between these two pants.

Pleated means that the pant has small folds in the fabric. Pants can come as single or double pleated.

Trouser cuffs are at the bottom of the pant leg. Some pants may or may not have them. According to A Tailored Suit, the best fit is when the cuff rests against the back of the shoe.

Next up is the fabric. The most common are woven wool or woolen blends usually in gray, navy blue, or black. They can also come in heavier fabrics that are better for winter than hotter months.

Real Men Real Style has an excellent checklist to help you purchase your new favorite pair of pants.

And if you look through this article and don’t want to go through the hassle of going to the store and trying on pants, come to Joseph Wendt Custom Clothiers and see about getting a perfectly-fitted pair of custom trousers.

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Showtime on the Fairway

So many debates on where the sport of golf originated…  Who do we thank for this amazing and challenging sport?  The Chinese Dynasties?  The Song Dynasty (920-1279)?  Or perhaps the Ming Dynasty (1425-1435)?  Was it invented in 17th century Netherlands?  Or besides the gift of drinking Scotch, do we owe the Scottish thanks for a great game, as well!

Our money is on the Dutch. Look at those pantaloons!

Well…  We don’t really know, and we are not here to find out.  Thank you, to whoever it was who invented this wonderful and crazy sport, because we are fans!  What we do know is that ever since it was first played, there have been displays of high fashion and even displays of ostentation (clubs inlaid with jade and gold, suggesting chuíwán, or golf, was just for the wealthy).

From a history of beautiful tailcoats, bow ties, outrageous colors and even more outrageous accessories, golfers represent the crème de la crème of style in the sports world.

Here is the best of the best from the early 1700s until today!

1700s
In the early days of the game in Great Britain, golfers played wearing kilts and animal skins before moving on to knee length-breeches and tailcoats.

A Dutch example, but you get the idea.

Old Tom Morris, wearing an example of the later English style.

Early 1900s
In the early modern era of golf, players often wore long trousers and full morning jackets with ties while golfing.  The golfers dressed formally to match the conservative attitudes of the time and the gentlemanly reputation of the sport.

Harry Vardon, who was a model for aspiring new golfers of his era.

Between the Wars
Golfers abandoned the suit jackets of the pre-war years in favor of sleeved shirts with bow ties.  They still tucked their trousers into their long stockings.  It was at this time that the bow ties became a popular accessory for many golfers.

That's Gene Sarazen on the left, sporting those stylish striped socks!

Bobby Jones and Ben Hogan, pioneers of the between the wars style.

1950s and 1960s
Thanks to golfers like Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus, golf moved from ultra-conservative fashions to the much looser khaki pants and light polos.

Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus. Nicklaus rocked the canary yellow!

1970s and 1980s
Golfers around the world such as Jack Nicklaus, Nick Faldo and Seve Ballesteros began sporting exuberant colors, which became popular in sweaters, trousers, socks and polos.  The colors prominently included bright pinks, blues, oranges and yellows.

21st Century
Golfers began to wear clothes produced by sports companies such as Nike, Adidas and Callaway.  Form-fitting polos and mock tee shirts have become popular on many professional tours.  It’s all about fashion fused with high technology for functionality, protection and performance.

Now we've arrived at the era where it's all high tech & très sleek!

For the ultimate golf accessories, look to our favorite: Michael Toschi, Golf G3.  “If golf were a religion, the G3 would be the badge of the highest faith.”

Italian calf upper, kidskin lining, CONTAC red outsole. Made in Italy. Equipped with CIS technology.

Michael Toschi’s outstanding footwear is the only footwear in the world to use the principles of geometry to favor the movements of anatomy.  CIS (Carbonlite insole) interfaces a stable, anatomically neutral foot platform with a suspension matrix outsole to provide technical performance-based comfort.

Sartorial Sanctuary or Ultimate Closet

After our last blog gave you a foundation, we hope your closet is starting to look pretty good. If you are not quite there yet, no worries! The wardrobe that we are talking about might take you a while to complete. It is quite a process indeed, but the most exhilarating part of when we are working on something is clearly knowing the steps ahead.

Let’s now imagine, for those who are not there yet, that your sartorial foundation is there, and that better yet, it is a solid, strong foundation. Remember, we told you all about the clearly important step of having the right items in your closet, but we also said that placing and maintaining those clothes are just as important. In this blog, we will give you some great tips to keep your sartorial Mecca running as smoothly as possible.

The very first step is to place your clothes appropriately. For this, you will need the right tools and the proper space (if you don’t have that, get working on it). There are plenty of great custom closet companies in major cities, and they all work with similar materials, although the price varies slightly. Connecting with your designer is what really makes the difference here, so be very specific as to what you want (maximize space, organizing, et cetera). Also, request to have more than one option (a sketch or picture of what the final job will look like would be optimal).

If you happen to take this on as your own personal project instead, because you’re feeling crafty and creative, needless to say, make some good use of those new tools you got from Santa. Adding shelves and drawers and extra racks will be a good idea to start with, and if you already have everything you need and just need to organize (and please keep it that way, we are not in college anymore!), then here is what you need to do.

Suits and overcoats.

Hang them in one side of the closet about 3 inches apart from each other, as this will minimize crushing. Keep the most expensive garments in a garment bag when it’s not being worn.

Primary shirts and trousers.

Hang at the other end of your closet 2 inches apart to reduce creasing. Pants, preferably, should be hung by the hem on trouser hangers.

If you are building/remodeling your closet, in the middle of your closet there should be a space with shelves and drawers. Please arrange for the bottom drawer to be a deeper one. Now we will tell you what goes in each.

Extra shirts.

Those that you do not wear as often should be neatly folded and placed on the top shelf. Do not hang everything you own, this just congests your space.

Sweaters.

Fold in piles and place on the shelves, as this will prevent stretching out the shape and will make them last much longer.

Socks, underwear and t-shirts.

Fold neatly and place in smaller drawers.

Thick knits and sweatshirts.

Remember that deeper drawer? Place those in here.

On the side where your shirts and trousers are hanging, there should be plenty of room to build at least two longer, shallow drawers. In there, place:

Ties.

The best way to store them is by folding them in half and then rolling them. Use this drawer to place pocket squares and other accessories.

Athletic clothes.

All in one place, and that remaining drawer is that place.

Below those shallow, longer drawers, there is still room for sloping shelves, and here you will place:

Shoes.

Keep them on shoe trees to help keep their shape. This will triple their life span. Cedar shoe trees are a great choice, as they absorb moisture and leave a fresh scent (remember to give shoes a day off and to polish them at least every third wear).

Extra Pointers.

  • Proper hangers: general purpose, sports coat only, trousers only and suits.
  • Wooden hangers will add a very elegant and appealing look to your closet.
  • Remove dry cleaned items from bags and hang them on proper hangers as soon as you get home. Keep a lint roller and a cloth brush with your suits. They will become your suits’ best friends!
  • Keep a closet or designated space to storage off-season items. Moths off!
  • Use garment bags to store off-season suits, as this keeps them away from dust, insects and fading.
  • Please, please dry clean or wash all-wool items before storing them away for the off-season. Space bags/other tight-sealing containers are perfect for that.
  • Emptying and airing the contents of your wardrobe regularly is a great habit.
  • Vacuum your closet regularly.
  • Add some cedar blocks or chips to keep your sartorial sanctuary smelling fresh.

Voila!

One more thing… We hope there is plenty of room left over to keep adding great pieces to your amazing wardrobe!